French red wine is losing popularity: what is happening to the country's symbol
Kyiv • UNN
Consumption of red wine in France has fallen by 90% since the 1970s due to changing tastes of the younger generation. Producers are forced to adapt to new realities and switch to producing other types of wine.
French red wine, a symbol of national culture, is experiencing a sharp decline in demand. The younger generation is choosing other drinks or giving up alcohol altogether, which poses serious challenges to the wine industry, UNN writes with reference to the Financial Times.
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Consumption of red wine in France has fallen by about 90 percent since the 1970s, according to the Interprofessional Council of Bordeaux Winemakers (CIVB), an industry association.
According to a Nielsen survey, the total consumption of red, white and rosé wines in France has fallen by more than 80% since 1945, and this decline is accelerating, with the younger generation buying only half the volume of the older generation.
"The problems with wine, especially red wine, are becoming existential, and they have been there for more than a decade," says Spyros Malandrakis, a beverage analyst at Euromonitor International.
Changes in French consumption are reinforcing global trends that are hurting the sector, such as declining consumption and changing tastes. In particular, the younger generation now prefers rosé wine to red wine, or they are opting for other drinks such as beer or something stronger.
"We see changes with each generation in France. If my grandfather drank 300 liters of red wine a year, my father drank 180 liters, and my son drank 30 liters," said Jean-Pierre Durand, a member of the CIVB board.
In addition, there has been a sharp drop in demand for red wine from China, the main exporter of the drink.
However, the problem did not affect all varieties of wine.
Some industry leaders expect producers to respond by focusing on higher quality wines or expanding their operations to produce not only red wines, but also white or low-alcohol wines. However, the latter requires investment in new vineyards and equipment.
Durand, who also heads the AdVini wine company in southwestern Bordeaux, predicts that in the future there will be little demand for lower-priced wines as the younger generation prefers quality over quantity. Some wines are sold in France for as little as 2.50 euros per bottle.
However, he says that overproduction and the availability of many cheap wines have damaged Bordeaux's image, although the region is also known for the Saint-Emilion district, which produces high-quality and expensive wines.
Some top-class winemakers are facing difficulties. The 2024 vintage at Château Mauvinon, a small family-run business in Saint-Emilion, suffered from extreme heat and mold, a problem faced by the entire region as climate change continues to affect it.
Brigitte Tribodeau, who owns and manages the winery, says that high-quality red wines from Grand Cru are still the backbone of Château Mauvinon's production, but she noticed changes in the habits of young consumers a few years ago and began to adapt to their tastes.
For example, in 2018, it started producing white wine and orange wine, which is popular among young people. Now it is experimenting with low-alcohol wine, which will be ready for sale this year.
Some wineries are reluctant to innovate, either because of cost or because of their commitment to tradition. Switching from red to white wine production requires significant investment, and not all growing areas are suitable for different grape varieties.
Most wineries have begun to resist buying wine mixers and wine barrels. Many of them are also in no hurry to introduce wine tourism and personalized marketing, which can attract younger consumers.
This has led to the uprooting of up to 9,500 hectares of vineyards in the Bordeaux region to curb overproduction and prevent the spread of disease through poorly maintained vineyards. The two-year plan, which began in 2023, provides for €6,000 per hectare to be uprooted, out of a total budget of €57 million, funded mainly by the government and the CIVB.
"We cannot continue to produce wines that are not drinkable," said Jean-Pierre Durand, a board member of the Bordeaux Wine Industry Association.
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