History of borscht and its most delicious recipes from different corners of Ukraine

Borscht is a traditional Ukrainian dish and a true cultural symbol that unites generations and regions. Its recipes are passed down through families from generation to generation, and every region of Ukraine has its own secrets of preparation. How this dish originated, why it is considered a part of specifically Ukrainian identity, and what unusual facts the history of borscht hides – UNN will explain.

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For Ukrainians, borscht is the taste of childhood, family traditions, and even the memory of home. It is prepared in every region in its own way, and people argue over the "correct" recipe. In 2022, Ukrainian borscht was officially included in the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage, becoming also a symbol of the struggle for one's own culture.

Borscht is considered one of the main dishes of Ukrainian cuisine. Its history spans centuries, and the number of recipes reaches dozens. In Ukraine, there are red, green, and cold borschts, and every region has its own culinary features: from Hutsul borscht with white beets to Poltava style on goose broth.

When did borscht appear?

One of the oldest mentions of borscht dates back to 1584. It was left by the German traveler Martin Gruneweg after visiting Kyiv. In his notes, he mentioned that people often cook it at home, and the dish itself is for them "daily food and drink."

Historians believe that even then, a formed tradition of cooking borscht existed in Ukraine. Since the 17th century, it has been regularly mentioned in the documents of Cossacks, monks, peasants, and the nobility. Borscht was a universal dish and differed only in the set of ingredients depending on the family's wealth.

The origin of the name itself has not yet been definitively established. The most common version links the word "borscht" with the hogweed plant (borschivnyk), from which a sour broth was once boiled. Later, the name began to be used for soup with beets and cabbage.

Why Ukrainian borscht was added to UNESCO heritage

In 2020, the "Culture of Ukrainian Borscht Cooking" was included in the National Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Ukraine. The initiator was chef Yevhen Klopotenko, who organized a "borscht expedition" during which ancient family recipes from different regions of Ukraine were collected.

And on July 1, 2022, the UNESCO Intergovernmental Committee included Ukrainian borscht in the List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding. This decision became important not only for gastronomy but also for the cultural self-identification of Ukraine. After all, borscht has long been a subject of dispute between different countries regarding its origin. At the same time, historians and researchers emphasize: it was in Ukraine that the centuries-old tradition of preparing this dish and a true cult of borscht were formed.

There is no single recipe for borscht 

In Ukraine, there are up to 30 regional variants, and in total, more than 70 described recipes for borscht.

Kyiv-style borscht is considered one of the most complex because it is prepared with three types of meat at once - beef, pork, and lamb, and bread kvass is also added. In the Poltava region, borscht was traditionally boiled on goose broth, and in the Kharkiv region, beer could be added. In Galicia, transparent borscht on beet kvass with mushroom "vushka" (small dumplings) was popular, and in the Zhytomyr region, there is borscht with dried fruits.

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Interestingly, tomatoes were once not added to borscht at all. Until the end of the 19th century, the sourness was provided by whey, sauerkraut, berries, or even sour apples.

A special place is occupied by Lenten borscht, which was prepared with mushrooms, beans, or fish. It was traditionally cooked during fasts and seasoned with oil and garlic.

The secret of borscht's popularity is not only in its taste. It is a dish that unites generations and regions. It is prepared in large cities and small villages, according to family recipes and modern interpretations. Despite dozens of variants, borscht remains something recognized as a Ukrainian dish that has become part of the world's cultural heritage.

Top 5 interesting facts about Ukrainian borscht

1. In the traditional Ukrainian recipe, borscht is not served immediately after cooking. At the end of the preparation, lard with garlic, herbs, and salt is added to the dish, after which the pot is covered with a lid and left to infuse for at least half an hour. It is believed that this is when the borscht acquires its true rich taste and aroma.
2. Ukrainian borscht entered not only culinary but also literary history. A mention of the dish can be found in the famous "Aeneid" by Ivan Kotlyarevsky, published back in 1798. In the work, borscht is mentioned alongside traditional Ukrainian dishes as an integral part of folk life: "Do not shun bread and salt. Taste the borscht and halushky."
3. Around New York, there is a region that received the unofficial name Borscht Belt. This was the name for the area where Ashkenazi Jews lived, who moved to the USA from Eastern Europe and brought the tradition of cooking borscht with them. Over time, this dish became a recognizable part of the local culture.
4. A small town called Borshchiv, located in the Ternopil region, was named in honor of borscht. Borshchiv is known as the "capital of Ukrainian borscht" and the center of a unique ethnographic region of Western Podillia. 
5. In Ukrainian culture, borscht also had a symbolic meaning. It was served not only for daily lunch or holidays but also at wakes. People believed that together with the steam from the hot borscht, "the soul of the deceased flies away."

Classic recipe for Ukrainian borscht

Ingredients

• pork bones with meat – 500 g;
• beans – 200 g;
• beet – 1 pc.;
• potatoes – 3-4 pcs.;
• cabbage – half of a small head;
• carrot – 1 pc.;
• onion – 1 pc.;
• tomato paste – 70 g;
• sugar – 1 tbsp.;
• vinegar – 1 tbsp.;
• lemon juice – to taste;
• garlic – 2 cloves;
• bay leaf – 2 pcs.;
• allspice – 3-4 peas;
• salt – to taste;
• oil – for frying the base;
• sour cream – for serving.

How to cook borscht

1. Rinse the pork on the bone well, place it in a pot, and cover with cold water. Cook over low heat for about 2-3 hours, periodically removing the foam so that the broth remains clear. At the end of cooking, add salt, bay leaf, and allspice. Before throwing the bay leaf into the pot, first singe it with fire - this way the aroma will open up better.
2. Prepare the beans. It is best to soak the beans in water overnight, as they will then cook much faster. After that, boil them until soft and drain the excess liquid.
3. Shred the cabbage, and grate the beet on a coarse grater or cut into thin sticks. Place the vegetables in a pan with a small amount of oil and sauté under a lid until medium soft. To keep the cabbage and beet juicy and prevent them from frying, add a little water from time to time.
4. Cut the onion into small cubes, add to the beet and cabbage, and sauté over low heat until translucent.
5. Then add the grated carrot and cook for a few more minutes. After that, add the tomato paste, stir, and sauté for another 2-3 minutes.
6. Remove the bone from the finished broth, separate the meat, and cut it into small pieces. Return the meat to the pot.
7. Peel and cube the potatoes. Add the sautéed vegetables and the cooked beans to the broth. Cook the borscht until the potatoes are done.
8. Add sugar and vinegar to the borscht. Taste the dish: if necessary, add more salt or a few drops of lemon juice for a light sourness. At the end, add crushed garlic and bring the borscht to a boil.
9. After cooking, cover the pot with a lid and leave the borscht to infuse for at least 15 minutes. During this time, the taste will become more rich and harmonious.

Serve hot – with sour cream. Also, garlic pampushky (buns), lard, and red or green onions will go well with the borscht. Bon appétit!