When preparing flower beds for winter, gardeners often cut back all faded plants. However, some perennials overwinter better with their old stems, while their dry flower heads decorate the garden and provide food for birds.
UNN explains what to leave in the flower bed until spring and what to remove now.
Why autumn pruning is not necessary for all perennials
Preparing a plant for winter does not end when flowering is over. As long as the leaves are green, they continue to photosynthesize, and nutrients flow to the roots, rhizomes, or underground buds. If the entire aboveground part is cut back too early, the perennial may accumulate fewer reserves for spring regrowth.
Dry stems also hold fallen leaves and snow, creating an additional protective layer around the base of the plant. Beneficial insects also overwinter in hollow stems.
Miscanthus, feather grass, fescue, and pennisetum: which grasses to leave in the flower bed until spring
Ornamental grasses most often benefit from pruning in spring rather than autumn. Tall clumps of miscanthus retain their shape even after the leaves have dried. Their fluffy panicles become covered with frost, while the stems hold back some of the snow. Experienced gardeners recommend cutting the old stems in spring, before new shoots appear.
Pennisetum, also known as fountain grass, is valued for its soft bristly spikes. Hardy perennial species can be left for the winter, but it is important to consider the variety: not all pennisetums can survive frost in the open ground of Ukraine. Dry stems alone cannot replace proper protection for heat-loving plants.
Feather grass and fescue, also called sheep's fescue, require more careful handling. Some of these grasses remain partly green in winter. They should not be cut "down to the ground. In spring, it is enough to comb out the dry leaves, remove damaged parts, and preserve the living center of the clump. Particular attention should be paid to the center of the plant. It should be checked regularly to ensure that it does not rot due to excessive moisture.
Astilbe and sea holly: dry flower heads can also be decorative
Astilbe does not completely lose its ornamental value after flowering. Its fluffy flower heads gradually turn brown but can remain on the stems during the cold season. Healthy flower stalks can be cut at the end of winter or in early spring.
Sea holly, or eryngium, produces dense, prickly flower heads that retain their shape well after drying. They create striking silhouettes in the winter flower bed. They are also used in dried bouquets. However, if the shoots have fallen over, turned black from disease, or threaten neighboring plants, it is better to remove them.
Lunaria and ornamental onions: do not rush to throw away the seed pods
Lunaria, also known as honesty, is known for the thin, rounded partitions of its seed pods, which resemble silvery coins after drying. The stems can be left in the flower bed or cut for arrangements.
After flowering, ornamental onions (alliums) form spherical seed heads. They decorate the garden even in winter. If there are no problems with self-seeding, they can be left until spring. The dried foliage of bulbs, which has completely died back, does not necessarily have to be left together with the flower stalks. It can be safely removed without any problems.
Echinacea and gaillardia can be left to provide seeds for birds
After flowering ends, echinacea forms dark, raised seed heads. Their seeds are eaten by small birds. If the plant shows no signs of infection, the dry heads should be left on at least some of the stems to feed birds during winter frosts. The heads themselves can be cut with the onset of warm weather without causing significant harm to the plant.
Gaillardia also produces fluffy seed heads that may attract birds. However, there is an important nuance: some perennial varieties are short-lived, and prolonged, abundant flowering exhausts the plant. To support overwintering, gardeners sometimes reduce the number of flower stalks as early as late summer. Therefore, they do not recommend that either beginners or experienced flower enthusiasts leave all the stems without taking the plant's condition and variety into account.
Peonies: wait until the foliage dies back, but do not leave it for the entire winter
The peony requires special preparation for winter. While its leaves are green, they ensure the accumulation of nutrients in the rhizome and the formation of reserves for future flowering. Therefore, a healthy bush should not be pruned immediately after flowering or at the beginning of autumn. However, when the leaves naturally turn yellow and begin to die back (especially after the first noticeable frosts), herbaceous peonies can be cut almost to ground level.
The old stems and leaves should then be removed from the flowerbed to reduce the risk of fungal diseases. Flower remnants affected by diseases should also not be composted at home.
Hostas: prune only when the leaves have completely died back
Hostas decorate shady corners of the garden with their large leaves, which gradually turn yellow in autumn. As long as they remain alive, there is no need to rush for the pruning shears. It is better to remove them after the first hard frosts, when they wilt and become soft. They should be cut carefully so as not to accidentally damage the buds at the base.
It is also worth noting that slugs and snails hide under hosta remnants, while damp debris promotes disease. To prevent this, the leaves should be removed in time.
How to tell if you have taken the pruning shears too early
The simplest way is to inspect the lower part of the plant. If the stems are firm and green near the base, and the leaves retain at least some of their healthy color, it is better to wait before cutting everything back. If the entire above-ground part has dried out, turned brown, and breaks easily, the active season has most likely ended. However, this is not an automatic signal to cut everything back to the roots: healthy dry flower heads of echinacea, astilbe, or miscanthus can safely remain in the flowerbed until spring.
What must be removed in autumn
Sanitary cleanup should not be postponed if the leaves show characteristic spots, a coating, signs of rot, or severe pest damage. Such debris should be removed, and the tools should be cleaned after use.
If self-seeding is undesirable, the seed heads should be cut off at least partially.
In heavy, wet soils, it is especially important to ensure that wet masses of leaves do not accumulate around the root collar. Mulch can help protect the root zone from sudden temperature changes, but it should not be spread in a dense layer directly over the buds or the center of the bush.
As a reminder
Earlier, UNN wrote about what needs to be done to prepare the plot for winter.